Sake and the Latin Mass
One of the most refreshing “exotic” drinks I’ve come across is sake—the Japanese rice wine which most of us have drunk steaming hot with a plate of sushi. Of course, that’s usually the cheap stuff; there are dozens of different varieties of sake, some of them finely crafted and quite expensive. The best brands are complex and flavorful, and properly served cold. Still that won’t stop me from scarfing down a carafe of the $9 variety on a cold December day—though probably not on December 7.
The Chinese and Japanese are still arguing over who invented sake, some time back in the third century B.C. (Indeed, so much of Japanese culture and religion comes from Chinese sources, that one can’t help wondering at the chutzpah it took for the Japanese to conquer and enslave large parts of China in the 1930s. Then again, in 1940, the Germans conquered the Greeks. . . .) What we do know is that the first sake was made by peasants chewing up rice to break down the starch, and spitting it into a tub to ferment—a process that makes this Westerner crave some wine pressed by smelly European peasants’ feet. Early sake factories must have resembled fields of cattle, clad in kimonos, chewing the cud. It took hundreds of years for a peasant whose jaws got tired to discover a handy mold which rendered saliva superfluous—and freed these farmers up to actually start eating their rice. It was only after they traded spit for mold that the sake industry really took off.
What’s interesting to us about sake—beyond its potent kick and pleasant afterburn, as the perfect accompaniment to a plate full of raw sea-urchins and fiery green wasabi—is the role it played in the tangled, sometimes secret history of Christianity in Japan.
In the great age of European exploration, when advances in navigational and military technology gave nations such as Portugal and Spain the chance to assert themselves against ancient civilizations from India to Japan, Catholic missionaries tagged along for the ride. The assorted adventurers who manned the ships were hardly the cream of Europe: In fact, they were largely scofflaws, bankrupt nobles, and others who saw no future at home in Iberia. With little to lose and much to gain—for instance, great big barrels of Asian seasonings such as pepper, in Europe worth their weight in gold—they embarked on the sixteenth-century equivalent of a trip to the planet Mars. And not all the Martians were impressed. Chinese accounts of the Portuguese and Spanish they encountered show mainly scorn for men they considered barbarians, who demanded knives to cut their food—a shocking faux pas to the hypercivilized mandarins, who mocked the Westerners for “eating with their swords.” The “long-noses,” as the Europeans were called, carried shocking new weapons like rifles and cannon, and appeared to the men of the Orient as crude, rude, and on the make—like a crowd of Alabama Amway salesmen descending on Paris, armed with light sabers.
But not all the explorers who came from the West had money in mind. On the same ships, serving as chaplains for the journey, rode missionary priests from religious orders such as the newly founded Society of Jesus. The most famous was Francis Xavier, a Spaniard who in 1529 had been wowed by St. Ignatius Loyola at the University of Paris into joining the fledgling order. In 1541, Francis sailed as a missionary to India, founding churches and studying Eastern languages, in the hope of planting Christianity across all Asia. In 1549, Francis landed in the Japanese city of Kagoshima. He spent a year studying Japanese, then set about traveling the country to evangelize. He left behind several flourishing Christian communities, and Jesuits to lead them. Ever pragmatic and eager to adapt themselves to local conditions, the Jesuits inquired of the Vatican if they could use sake and rice cakes instead of (scarce) grape wine and wheat-based bread for the Eucharist. “No,” the Vatican explained.
There were serious reasons for the Holy See’s refusal. Unlike some gnostic, New Age religions, the Church believes that the material world is sacred, that particulars are important, and that the historical specifics of Christ’s life are decisive. He used bread and wine, and commanded us to “do likewise”—not to do something “vaguely analogous,” or “curiously evocative,” but the same thing, over and over again, in unbloody repetition of the sacrifice of Calvary. For this reason, the Church has warned that funky liturgies employing carrot-cake and Pepsi (for some reason, usually celebrated by Jesuits) are not simply inappropriate but invalid. If you ever find that your pastor has introduced some alien substance instead of bread and wine, show your gratitude by stuffing the collection basket with Monopoly money. And don’t be stingy!
As the Jesuits discovered, the Japanese warrior culture had long ago reconciled this pagan people to the necessity of suffering. Indeed, the samurai had created a kind of cult of pain, which carried over among the new Christians. The Jesuits found their freshly baptized followers all too willing to flog their own backs and impose all manner of excruciating penances on themselves. Recalling the example of St. Ignatius, their founder—whose excessive penances had ruined his health— the priests restrained the new Christians from torturing themselves needlessly.
All too soon, the need would arise on its own. Thanks to political blunders on the part of the Europeans, Japan’s warlord rulers turned against the suddenly, scarily popular priests. To the Japanese ruling class, these missionaries now seemed like a fifth column working on behalf of foreigners such as the Spanish, who by then ruled the nearby Philippines as a colony. In 1587, the samurai launched a persecution of the missionaries and their flocks, who by now numbered some 200,000. Despite this persecution, the numbers of Japanese Christians kept on growing. By 1597, the authorities began to torture and slaughter Christians wherever they found them. Dozens of martyrs whose names have come down to us—and some 200,000–300,000 others—suffered hideously for the Faith, as the pagan warlords skinned them, hung them to die slowly from trees, burned them alive or crucified them. Soon, the only Christians remaining in Japan practiced their faith in secret. And so they would stay, as Kakure Kirishitan (“hidden Christians”) for some 250 years.
These secret Christians made a show of practicing Shintoism or Buddhism. They conducted Christian rituals in hiding, reciting liturgies from memory and snatches of prayers in Latin and Portuguese which they’d long ceased to understand. They held Communion rituals using fish and sake instead of bread and wine. In the nineteenth century, when the emperor lifted the ban on Christianity and French missionaries arrived, most of these Christians came forward—and quickly reverted to the pure form of the Faith for which their ancestors had died. But not all were willing. So much time had passed, and so fuzzy had memories grown, that thousands of Kakure Kirishitan refused to join the churches planted by these priests, and stayed home practicing the half-remembered faith their parents had whispered to them. As if in a game of catechetical “telephone,” the details of the creed had gotten confused, and the rites of the Church transformed into something quite curious, thoroughly Japanese, and new. In 2000, Anthropologist Christal Whelan released a film Otaiya: Japan’s Hidden Christians, documenting these ultra-traditionalists, who celebrate Christmas and Good Friday but have forgotten the feast of Easter. Their numbers have dwindled to the hundreds, and soon the group is likely to disappear entirely.
Their fate is poignant to us, because we know quite a few Catholics in the West in a similar plight. In the 1970s, as Pope Paul VI faced wholesale rebellion by progressives in the Church, he wielded his papal authority instead to persecute the small numbers of Catholics who resisted the most expansive readings of Vatican II. As a flag of resistance, these traditionalists also rejected the new, truncated liturgy which Paul VI had imposed, suppressing almost entirely the rites which the Church had used for well over 1,000 years. In 1970, with initial Vatican approval, French Archbishop Marcel Lefèbvre founded the Society of St. Pius X (SSPX) to meet the needs of Catholics bewildered by postconciliar changes—most of which went far beyond what was authorized by the documents of the council. Indeed, so did the liturgy imposed by Paul VI, which bore little resemblance to the reforms called for in Sacrosanctum Concilium—a point recognized in several books by the present Pope Benedict XVI.
It was not long before hundreds of seminarians deserted the newly radicalized seminaries of France for Lefèbvre’s
institute in Ecône, Switzerland, and progressive French bishops appealed to Paul VI to suppress the group. He did so in 1975—after refusing to consider Lefèbvre’s canonical appeal. He soon suspended Lefèbvre and all his priests—who had meanwhile set up chapels around the world, to minister to Catholics who’d been alienated by the sudden changes in liturgy, practice, and (apparently) doctrine. Thousands of laymen who’d stopped going to Mass altogether, and gathered weekly instead to say the Rosary in their homes (they called themselves “Home-Aloners") flocked to the chapels of the SSPX—even as their local pastors labeled them schismatics. This made traditionalists virtually the only group which Paul VI had dealt with firmly, even as bishops’ conferences defied him on major issues of faith and morals, religious orders embraced Marxist theology, and pastors around the world conducted liturgical experiments that ranged from “consecrating” pizza and beer to dressing as clowns to celebrate Mass.
Recognizing the injustice with which traditionalists had been treated, Pope John Paul II attempted to win back Archbishop Lefèbvre and his followers in 1988—offering them substantial autonomy in relation to the local bishops they considered (with some reason) abusive. Distrustful, dying, and surrounded by youthful hotheads, Lefèbvre refused to make a deal, and consecrated four more bishops to carry on his group when he was gone. This won him and his bishops a decree of excommunication—but won for those willing to leave the SSPX and take the Vatican’s offer the right to revive the ancient Roman liturgy, granted by the 1988 motu proprio entitled Ecclesia Dei. Those who left the SSPX, the Fraternity of St. Peter, now work throughout the world, with parishes planted wherever local bishops will tolerate the use of Gregorian chant and a reverent liturgy. Several other groups have since sprung up, with Vatican encouragement, to carry on the Church’s liturgical heritage.
On July 7, the Holy See went even further. In the long-awaited motu proprio Summorum Pontificum, Pope Benedict extended universal permission for any priest, however squeamish his bishop, to celebrate the same rite said by St. Francis Xavier on a makeshift altar in Japan. Hopes are high that this gesture, among others, may help reconcile the Society of St. Pius X with the Holy See, and end what some have called the first Church schism of modern times.
Of course, we pray that this happens, and look forward to the day when our parish priest will turn his back on us to pray facing the tabernacle. But even if this happy event takes place, it’s certain that significant numbers of traditionalists will refuse the pope’s outstretched hand. Like those traumatized “secret Christians” of Japan, they will cling to Calvary, and refuse to believe the message that He is risen.
John Zmirak is author of The Bad Catholic’s Guide to Wine, Whiskey, and Song.

Comments
1. I have long experience, both in the seminary and in the parish, of “liturgists” who twist documents to mean what they want them to mean. Call it “liturgical deconstruction”. I fear that the document’s phrase “stable group” will be twisted into a number, a number decided arbitrarily, and a number that must be present every single day or Sunday - or the guillotine. Or instable will be held to mean “nutcases” or “disobedient to the pastor’s (heterodox and heteropraxis) whims”.
2. The “my-way-is-the-only-way” types enjoy being entertainers and the center of attraction. They consider their “touchy-feely” antics to be “loving”, “concern”, “welcoming”, “building community” etc. And I am very sorry to report, but based on my own painful experience in the seminary and in local churches, and based on rumor, report, law suits, and criminal prosecutions, many of these types are also homosexuals, and regard their “play liturgy” part of their sexual identity. Others just have a pathological hatred of “the old Church”.
In short, plenty of these clergy will now dig in their heels and fight tooth and nail.
3. We all live in a particular culture. Americans are largely influenced by the Non-Conformist Ranter and Evangelical emotional tradition in religion, and otherwise live in a culture of banal, insipid, vulgar, sensationalist, or kitsch emotions. Serious, devout, formal, and traditional solemnity isn’t what most folk are used to, and certainly not what they haven’t gotten at Mass for the last 40 years. We have this resistance as well.
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Hey, John Zmirak! My fellow “Franciscan” holy fool (in spirit anyway - and I forget the Latin phrase for this, something like “Christian animaliter spiritus-something”, ie, an old Latin phrase which means “a Christian in spirit even if not in outward appearance"…
...yeah well, in a similar way, Zmirak, you and I are both like “Franciscans” in spirit, God’s Fools, even if we don’t wear or practice formal Franciscan habits. And I’m going to go out on a limb here and suggest that in his own way, Taki is very much like a Franciscan too… ;-) I’ll go even further and suggest that Taki started this magazine in the same spirit as Francis of Assisi did when he, as another wealthy nobleman,
decided to devote his worldly powers to God and to all creatures great and small.
Taki is not an ascetic - and neither am I - but I do see a lot of the spirit of St Francis in what Taki is doing now, in his gifts and endeavours such as this one…
ANYway! Zmirak! Dude! Just three days ago I arrived in Australia, after spending five straight bloody years in the atheist and anti-Christian People’s Republic of China. So I think I can augment this article of yours:
I wonder, DID you know - or do any of our other friends know - that most of the underground Chinese Christians (both Catholic and Protestant) REFUSE to receive any smuggled Bibles other than the King James Bible? Let me tell ya why:
(gloss: The Bible is STILL outlawed in China, except for a small number of Bibles which are officially approved by the Communist Party. That’s why the Chinese Christians still need Bibles to be smuggled into China, illegally. Because it’s illegal to publish any Bible in China, except for versions which have been approved by the Communist Party.)
So, ya get it now? Most Chinese Christians are VERY picky about what kind of smuggled Bibles they use - because they want to be VERY careful to avoid using any Bibles which have been corrupted by Communist Party editors. That’s why most Chinese Christians (including many Chinese Catholics), prefer to stick to using
smuggled King James Bibles (and then translating them into Chinese) - because they are all so desperate to have some kind of reliable Bible to use, untainted by any Communist Party editing.
This is the real condition of Chinese Christianity today. Both Protestants and Catholics, in Communist China, are just DESPERATE to find some reliable traditional Christian media - some authentic connection with Christ and his Apostles - to cling to, while the Communist Party tries so hard to corrupt and to twist and to contaminate any and all expressions of the Gospel in China.
Funny thing is, that although I’m a Catholic, my experience in China over the past five years has given me a far greater respect for the Protestants’ especial emphasis on the Bible. Because, you see, for the besieged Christians of China, both Protestant AND Catholic, having access to an AUTHENTIC Bible is their only lifeline to Christ.
This experience, in China, has given me a lot more respect for the Protestants’ way of revering the Bible as their direct connection to the words of Jesus.
Anyway. As for sake: I can tell you that it’s a Japanese improvement over a very barbarian Chinese liquor. As in so many other ways, the Japanese adapted an old Chinese custom and improved upon it. Sake is great - but the Chinese kind of rice wine from which it was derived, is shit. Chinese rice wine is like turpentine; and a good analogy would be, German Marxism is to Chinese Communism, like mediocre German wine is to the shittiest kind of Chinese liquor.
European Marxism sucks, even though it’s potable and slightly pleasing, but Chinese Marxism is poisonous.
But, mutatis mutandis: The very bitterness of the experience of Chinese Christians, and the poisons of the Chinese Communist Party which afflict them almost to death, alchemically create a peculiar potion of Chinese Christianity which is a uniquely elegant, exquisite variety of the Blood of Christ.
As wretched and toxic as all Chinese liquors are, the wine of Christ’s blood in China is all the more exquisite, because all the more rare and so hardly fermented…
...like I am happily fermented right now - three days after I left China - with a glass of Australian “Cascade Premium Lager” with a picture of a Tasmanian Devil on the label, as I write now in a free and officially Christian country, under the Southern Cross. :-)
Here endeth the lesson. But seriously, please spare a few thoughts, or more, for the conditions of China’s besieged Christians of today…
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The mention of the Rites Controversy that took place between Jesuits and other Catholic missionaries in China - of which the elements used in the Eucharist were a very small part - reminds me that somewhere I recall reading that the Roman Catholic chaplain to the Young Pretender, during the rising of 1745, on occasion said mass using Scotch whisky in place of wine, when at times there was none available. So far as I know its sacramental validity was never challenged.
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An excellent piece.
As for “Summorum Pontificum,” the only proper response is “Deo gratias.”
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Another interesting parallel are the Russian Old Believer churches, which left the mainstream Russian Orthodox in the 1600s over minor liturgical changes… especially the Priestless groups, laymen who pass on their faith (including, in theory, about bishops etc.) and build churches without altars - the icon screens are flat against the wall.
http://aconservativeblogforpeace.pageshow.net
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Me on the motu:
http://home.att.net/~sergei592/motu.html
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The traditionalist experience with Vatican “tolerance has not been a happy one. Accepting the right to celebrate the mass of the ages has always been linked by the Vatican with toleration of the perversions of practice and doctrine introduced by Vatican II. The experience of Santos, Brasil in this regard is educational.
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Theodore, you’re right, it was the Campos (not Santos) parish that celebrated an agreement with the Vatican and then assimilated the practices of Vatican II.
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Alas, Mr. Zmirak promotes the untruth that the SSPX is in schism from Rome, when it is not. The SSPX has never denied Papal primacy or jurisdiction. Said denials are two hallmarks of schism.
And unlike the “sedevacantists”, they affirm that the Popes since Pius XII are legitimate Popes.
The SSPX website makes a better and more detailed case for their defense against this charge than I can. I suggest any interested parties visit their website for further information.
http://www.sspx.org
Thank you all for your time and attention.
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As a white girl who lived in China--and will be leaving in a month to live in Taiwan for my junior year of college--I must take issue with Mr. Ball’s characterization of Chinese wine as “shit”. (And do we have to be vulgar? Please, there are ladies reading! I hate when Catholic men swear--don’t you have any respect for my ears???) I absolutely adore good plum wine. It’s very much like sherry or port. As for baijiu, the so-called “white alcohol”, it’s basically a grain alcohol--moonshine--and the point is to get drunk, not to taste it!
I was very interested to read about the Japanese Christians. As someone studying the Chinese language with the idea of using it for evangelization, St. Francis Xavier is my patron, and I ask for his prayers all the time!
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I have never asserted that the SSPX was in schism. Anyone who read my account of their history could see that I consider their treatment by Paul VI unjust. Indeed, the fact that I compared traditionalists to the persecuted Christians of Japan might give the perceptive reader some hint of my sympathies on the matter. However, there are SOME traditionalists--not, including, I think, the leadership of the SSPX--who have grown so comfortable with their role as critics that they actively want the Church to go further away from Tradition, the better to vindicate their bitterness. I see that some of the commentators here fall into that category. I pray that they read the writing of the current pope, and that the Holy Spirit will soften their hearts.
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Whoa! Bit of a journalistic trick here. Characterizing all traditionalists with the defects of “some,” only barely exempting the SSPX “leadership,” and skating happily over the doctrinal ambiguities of Vatican II to urge us all to sweet unity is not quite on. Mgr. Lefbvre has continually, and publically, detailed his doctrinal objections against the Council right up until his final days, and the bishops he consecrated have done the same, in books, sermons, conferences, (and websites) around the world. Why pass over all that in favour of back handed remarks about bitterness?
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Mr. Ball,
The real poison and shit in China are the
Christians (both Papist and Protestant). This
foreign religion, and foreigners such as yourself
and Ms. Joye as well as the traitors who believe
in your nonsense religion are a cancer. You and
your ilk tried under Francis Xavier, the Taipings,
colonialism, etc, to dominate China and do what you
did to Africa. Your gospel has brought nothing but
slavery, exploitation and misery to the world. And
even though I don’t agree with everything the
Chinese government does, I applaud all efforts to
eradicate Christianity from holy Chinese soil. You and
your ‘holy’ bible have no place in China, as all
books involving cannibalism, incest, murder, genocide,
and all manner of evil should be banned. I ask you,
Christians, especially you Papists, am I so wrong
to want to keep Paedophile Priests out, we don’t
want our children raped, and I’m sure Papist central
in Rome doesn’t want another class action lawsuit
on its hands. SO CHRISTIAN FILTH, KEEP OUT!!!
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